Rainer Redux!

This is a photo from our very successful Mt. Rainier CME course on High Altitude Medicine from last summer. We are hosting the course again with the sponsorship of the Wilderness Medical Society this summer. The course will be at the lovely Nisqually Lodge in Ashford Washington. Dates of the course are: July 21 through July 24th, 2009. A guided climb of Mt Rainier will be offered following the CME course!
contact us for information.
Course Details
Contact Mountain & Marine Medicine

Avalanche Awareness & Video Link!

This video is a graphic description of both the allure of backcountry skiing and the risk to those who tempt steep powder slopes!

http://revver.com/video/310519/a-dozen-more-turns/

We are going to post this as a permanent link at our sister site:

http://unmwildernessmed.blogspot.com/

Great video, Thanks Diane for the link!

Joe Alcock MD

What to bring to Rainier

As I am winding my way up to Seattle via Colorado and Wyoming, the Rockies have been warm. August will be nice at Rainier, too. But don't relax...bring mountain clothes!


For those NOT climbing, I recommend:
Jacket and waterproof or water resistant shell; rainjacket
Layers of clothing for upper body and pants (possible water resistant pant shell as well)-from material that wicks the sweat away from the body
Warm hat and a cap
Sunglasses, sunblock or the like
Gloves
Sturdy pants for outings, hiking boots or sturdy trail shoes
Daypack, water container
Warm socks
Thermal underwear
CAMERA
Writing implements
Personal medical kit: blister kit, ibuprofen/Tylenol, tape, personal meds; acetazolamide (if tolerated) if going up high and you have a history of acute mountain sickness)
Hint: for activewear, I avoid cotton, opting for Coolmax or similar clothing. Nothing worse than wearing your sweat when a blast of cold air blows in from Alaska!

Since we are hoping to take a hike to a snowfield (time permitting), in addition to the above, you may ALSO want to bring these as options (but don't knock yourself out in buying these if you don't have):
Crampons, snow climbing boots on which the crampons fit
Long ice axe
Trekking poles
Gaiters
Climbing harness, locking carabiner (large)
Climbing helmet
Duct tape
A Release waiver (see website)-this outing is not required as part of the course!

For climbers, consult the IMG website (http://www.mountainguides.com/rainier-gear.shtml). I am leaving the cannister of oxygen at home, but bringing, in addition to all the above:
Down jacket
Insulated winter gloves (waterproof) and and EXTRA PAIR!
Plastic bags (for trash, and for vapor barrier liners)
Glacier glasses
Rope (for 2)
Prusiks or jumars
extra cord/cordelettes and extra carabiners
Sleeping bag, bivy sac, insulated foam pad/Thermarest equivalent
Tent (four season), groundcloth/tarp
Implements and small stove for cooking, food
Survival kit (map, compass or GPS, knife, fire starter, chocolate bars or glucose gels, cell phone, signal mirror (on my compass), HEADLAMP with extra batteries
Shovel, avy beacon, probe

Happy packing

Darryl

High Altitude Medicine Course at Mt. Rainier National Park

Mountain & Marine Medicine is pleased to report that our upcoming course at Mt Rainier National Park is nearly Sold Out!

If you are on the fence about coming, now is the time to send in your payment or pay online.

We have great group of participants with a diverse background. There will be plenty of opportunities for great conversations, starting on July 31

at the Nisqually Lodge.

Bob Quinn MD at rquinn@salud.unm.edu ,as always, is available to give details about the optional climb of Mt. Rainier immediately following the course. Don't miss this special event.

PS. The photo is from our climb last summer of Mont Blanc in France, not Rainier!

Joe

The Value of Pre-Acclimatization

We encourage everybody to who is planning on the climb of Rainier to make an effort to visit high altitude prior to the course. This is easier for some than others. Look back to this blog for more details!

Physical Preparation for Rainier

Now it’s time to think about our climb to Rainier. Physically preplanning your summit day will enhance your chances of getting to the top, and enjoying it. If you have not been exercising, do so now. Cardiovascular fitness will be key. Engaging in activities specific to the goal will be important. Running and/or walking around with a heavy backpack (at least a third of your weight) for 30 minutes for 3 times a day will help. Get your heart rate up to 80 percent of maximal (220 minus age is your “maximal”-an easy formula). Cross train at least once a week doing a favorite activity, preferably climbing and or swimming for overall conditioning. If you are not fit, start your exercise slowly. If you are in good shape, you can double these workouts.
Increase complex carbohydrate intake (pasta for example) once you are doing this regimen, unless you need to shed a few pounds. In the latter case, decrease carbohydrate content, but keep protein intake the same. Substitute red meat intake for chicken or fish, or beans with corn or rice. Stop smoking, and if you have any health problems or are over 50, get a medical exam if you haven’t done so before.
If you are around high altitude, begin acclimatizing. This will be crucial. Initiate by going up to 8,000-foot elevations once or twice a week to walk in the first week for at least 2 hours. If possible, spend three days over 8,000 feet the second week, with a sojourn to 10,000 feet, walking. Spend the third week doing three of your routine workouts over 8,000 feet, going to at least 80 percent of maximal heart rate for 20-30 minutes. If adventurous, do one of your workouts at 10,000 feet. Rest at least a day between workouts.
Continue this the fourth week, especially if you were unable to do this routine during week 3. For the fifth and sixth week, if possible, add a hike (with a backpack) to 12,000-14,000 feet, or whatever is highest for you. Keep well hydrated at all times, and consider drinking “Endurox” or “Accelerade” to your hydration regimen. For “extra credit,” sleep above 10,000 feet once a week on weeks 3-5.
This regimen should reduce your chances for high altitude illness. Before you undertake this suggested program, MAKE SURE YOU CLEAR IT WITH YOUR PERSONAL PHYSICIAN FIRST, AND DO NOT UNDERTAKE THIS PARTICULAR REGIMEN IF YOU HAVE CARDIOPULMONARY DISEASE OR OTHER ILLNESSES THAT MIGHT FLARE UP AS A RESULT OF THIS REGIMEN. AND EXERCISE CAUTIOUSLY AT ALTITUDE IF YOU HAVE HAD PROBLEMS AT ALTITUDE BEFORE. You may contact us for further information.
dario

One of our Rainier participants writes:

" I am looking forward to the conference in just a couple of months. I was wondering if you knew through your blogging or people signing up.....if there are any folks sharing rides from SEA TAC down to Ashford for the conference? I was hoping to rideshare with some one, pay for gas, etc..."

Now is the time to but tickets to Seattle and make travel arrangements. I can help coordinate rideshares if there is interest. Send an email to info@mmmedicine.com

Cheers,

Joe Alcock

Arriving in Seattle

When you arrive at the Seattle-Tacoma (SeaTac) airport, you may find a spectacular view of Rainier to the south. The anticipation of a new, and different medical conference rises in your mind, and the anticipation of summiting this beautiful, Fuji like peak creates excitement. You might not even know much about high altitude, but you know you will after the conference. You have been running and training a bit at the gym in order to prepare you for a more adventurous type of CME. But you forgot a few supplies. No worries, because beautiful Seattle has it all! You can go to REI at 222 Yale North in Seattle (phone 206-223-1944, see http://www.rei.com/seattle for store locations) to load up or rent equipment for our excursions. Besides, a little detour is worth it. Nearby boasts the Space Needle, built for the World Expo in 1962, with a surrounding park, zoo, and museums (http://www.spaceneedle.com/restaurant). You might even plan to stay by the seaside community of Queen Anne and eat seafood overlooking the spectacular waterfront.

The Puget Sound, and the surrounding islands are rich with open air markets, kayaking possibilities in the San Juan Islands, fishing, and excursions to Victoria Island. Before or after the conference, Seattle is not to be missed! TripAdvisor.com can keep you apprised of good places to stay. Your family will enjoy these options, as well. Don't hesitate to contact us at worlddoc@comcast.net for more information.

Telluride Mountainfilm 2008

The 30th Mountainfilm in Telluride, Colorado will be held on May 23 - 26. This is a four-day experience that draws athletes, artists, and activists from around the world. The wide range of short and feature length films aims to inspire and challenge the audience. Mountainfilm in Telluride seeks to explore critical and compelling issues the world is facing while showcasing the art of documentary and filmmaking.

A few highlights from the upcoming lineup of non-film events include:
“Moving Mountains Symposium on Water”
“Tribute to the Late Sir Edmund Hillary” hosted by David Breashears
“Foreign Policy Roundtable, Hot Spots Around the World” with Christiane Amanpour, Richard Holbrooke, Roger Cohen and Samantha Power
“The Village Green,” a discussion Ashton Hayes, England, and its efforts to be carbon neutral

Big names in the world of travel, art, adventure, and environmental awareness will grace the event. Early bird tickets are on sale until May 1. For more information please visit mountainfilm.org.

International Activities-A Refocus

Our phenomenal month with our wilderness medicine class has catapulted us to many activities in the wilderness and international medicine scene. Our Mount Rainier 2008 conference on July 31 to August 3 is gonna be amazing, and many of you know about it. But in the works is an amazing international emergency medicine conference in Buenos Aires, Argentina. On June 11-13, we will join in with the American College of Emergency Physicians (ACEP) and the Argentine Society of Emergency Medicine (SAE-Sociedad Argentina de Emergencias) to bring participants an exceptional educational event, whether you speak Spanish or English. Not only will talks on emergency and wiliderness medicine be given, but a unique opportunity to meet with the "movers and shakers" in emergency medicine throughout the Americas will be there. And don't forget the Patagonia backcountry skiing and jungle tours to take place after the conference! More information can be found at http://internationalemergencymedicine.blogspot.com.
Also in the makings are a four day mountain medicine survival course in October, and an opportunity to participate in many other activities in the future. Feel free to mail us at mail@mountainandmarinemedicine.com for more info!